Don’t spend money rebuilding your original hubs! Replace them with new, stronger hubs and put an end to worries of a dangerous failure. Failure of the weak, original rear hub can cause a wheel to suddenly part company with the car with devastating results.
Take a look at the comparison photos of the rotating parts of the original hub vs. the Good Parts hub. The original hub transmits all the side force through a small, 1.062″ diameter axle shaft that can fatigue and break. Good Parts hubs use a much stronger design where the side force is transferred directly from the wheel flange to the large bearing where the minimum load bearing diameter is 1.91″. The inner bearing races are included since they contribute to the effective load bearing diameter when the big nut is torqued. In the photo showing the parts disassembled, the shinier area of the original tapered spindle marked “A” was still securely stuck in the wheel flange which made it very hard to press apart. The area marked “B” is darker because the surface has tiny wear marks from rubbing against the inside of the taper in the wheel flange as the spindle was flexing. Eventually the spindle may break off leaving the wheel free to leave the car. The shiny area marked “C” shows where the inner bearing was wearing on the spindle allowing a little wheel wobble that could not be eliminated with adjustment of the bearing preload. The original hub transmits driving force through a 1/4″ square key whereas the Good Parts hub used a spline.
Uses a modern sealed double tapered roller bearing with factory set pre-load
Reduced weight and hub flex improves handling
Simple bolt-in with no modifications to trailing arm
Same hub as SKU112 but includes 1-1/4″ long wheel studs (measured from face of flange without brake drum). Heads of wheel studs are countersunk to clear brake adjuster on Triumph Stags.
This item is custom assembled for each order. Typical lead time is 3-5 days.